Tag: #photographic

For thousands of years the Andean people relied upon one type of animal as their means of transport. All their goods being transported by this one haughty beast, the Guanaco, which formed the ‘Caravans of the Andes’.

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This ungainly and spitting beast took the place of the horse as the continent’s beast of burden.

 

Llama

 

Over the thousands of years the indigenous peoples of the Andes domesticated the Guanaco into a slightly more amenable and much more useful animal, the Llama.

Whilst the Llama will not allow itself to be ridden it had the capacity and strength to carry goods and for the people living in the high Andes this made the animal valuable.  The Incas used the droppings from the Llama and Guanaco to fertilise their crops.  ‘Caravans of the Andes’ made up of Llamas would transport potatoes, maize,wool and salt from the Altiplano west to the coast and east to the lower lands, the forests and dry deserts. On their return journeys, the Llamas would carry fish and seafood from the coast or feathers, tobacco,wood and honey from the lowlands in the east.

The entire economy of the Andean peoples relied upon the Llama, whist the milk, meat and wool from the animal directly sustained them in their harsh and mountainous environment.

There is a special place in northern Chile where these ‘caravans’ congregated.  It is thought that hundreds of ‘caravans’ would converge on this place particularly at fiesta times. Not only was this a great market it was also a stock exchange of promises and plans. Families would unite, marriages proposed, debts settled and no doubt revenge sought after.

 

Paula and I were travelling through the Atacama desert.  We were returning from an expedition to Peru, part of a ‘Living Wild in South America’ filming and photographic project.

We saw up on the distant hills, patterns and shapes,  so we investigated. This was the Salar de Pintados near to Iquique.  These patterns could be seen from all directions, signposts in the sky. Thousands of years ago caravans of tradesmen, merchants, families from throughout the Andes may have journeyed here and the animal that would have sustained them would have been their Llamas.

 

Boiling pools of water,gassy fumaroles, mud volcanoes, sulfurous fumes, bubbles and spouts, jets of steam, all these and more, are to be found in a land of Geysers.

 

Ten million years or more ago the South American continent gradually collided with the Nazca plate.  Over expanses of time beyond mans ability to comprehend, this collision led to many great events. The Andes reared upwards into the sky and deep deep in the depths of the earth, the red hot inner core was ruptured, forcing incandescent heat to the earths surface. Volcanoes were formed from Tierra de Fuego (the land of fire) to the Caribbean. The surface of South America was crafted in a cauldron.

 

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There are a many places along this ring of fire where small amounts of heat causes geysers and pools of steaming water.

 

Steam rising from vents, El Taito Geysers, Chile.

The geysers are highly photographic, but to see them at their best one needs to be present at dawn.

 

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One of the most popular areas to find geysers is close to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile the El Taito geysers.  From this town it is about a two hour drive to the geysers.  Visitors have to leave at 4.00 am to catch the geysers at their best.

 

Dawn at El Taito geysers, Chile.

Paula and I are fortunate as we have our own vehicle, which we use for our ‘Living Wild in South America’ expeditions. We were able to drive up the day before, and sleep overnight, this meant we did not have to get up at a silly hour. Though camping at 4000 m is no fun either, headaches, shortage of breath and cold being just a few of the disadvantages.

 

Steaming geysers, El Taito, Chile.

If you do have the opportunity to go, make sure that you take breakfast with you.  No food or drink is available on site, and its very cold, when you are not close to the Geysers.